![]() I dont recall it ever being hostile to other painted surfaces, and it might even have been one of those crazy cool environmentally friendly type things that the Navy was starting to get into. Rub the compound in a circular motion until the plate shines. Then, apply a metal polishing compound, like aluminum oxide or cerium oxide, using a soft cloth. It held up to the North Atlantic pretty well for long cruises, and that was pretty tough duty that no Porsche should ever see. To polish diamond plate, first, clean the surface with warm soapy water and a sponge. You can paint over it with your primer after about 30 minutes, and it will almost assure a clean application. Just gloves and a decent respirator (wink, wink). I used it many times with no apparent _( problems from the encounters. The Phospho stuff was a little less catastrophic than straight hydrofluoric acid. When you put it all together again, make extra care when you put the steel parts back on. The aluminum just cant handle being in contact with another metal. Aluminum doesnt corrode, per se, but bimetal corrosion is a bugger. Pretty cool chemistry.Ī problem you run into on aluminum cars is steel fasteners. It was pretty cool to put it on before the primer and watch the rust and oxidation just vanish. ![]() How to Clean Oxidized Aluminum Patio Furniture Using Regular Household Items If you notice that your formerly flawless patio chairs and tables are slowly turning into noticeably oxidized aluminum patio furniture, don’t panic. You can polish it brighter, but the zinc will always be darker.We used a stuff called Phospho or something similar when I was in the navy, it can actually revert the oxidation to metal. This is why you need to learn how to clean oxidized aluminum patio furniture if you go for this material. Then, you can either polish them or hit clean them up with some WD-40 and Scotchbrite. This will take off all the old 'protective coating' or varnish. Take the parts off the bike and hit them with paint stripper. This was the same as the zinc plugs for my Ariel - zinc turns dark gray. If you are looking on cleaning the parts from your 91 Hugger, from what I saw in your other thread you need to strip them first. The heads brightened up quickly, but the valve covers, especially the left, developed dark gray splotches. The aluminum brightens, but the zinc turns black.įor example I soaked the heads and valve covers of my '83 LM in Krud Kutter and was not getting out all the dirt so sprayed them down with Eagle1 cast aluminum wheel cleaner and scrubbed. Acids quickly mobilize any zinc in aluminum alloys. Another problem is acids will start mobilizing the metals and start anodizing much more quickly than the surfactant-detergent cleaners - even if all the parts are "aluminum". Dirt then sticks to the rough surface easier unless you polish it or coat the parts with something. Muriatic acid (HCl) and HF work by etching the surface of the aluminum. Use wire wool to get rid of any lingering rust. Another way to clean aluminum that is oxidized is by using a gentle abrasive similar to baking soda. To polish a tarnished object, you must first clean it thoroughly. First, use a damp towel and dish soap to clean the metal. Wring and rinse the sponge, and then use it to rinse the aluminum clear of detergent. Dip a cellulose sponge into the solution and scrub the surface of the oxidized aluminum, applying moderate pressure and making even strokes. Vinegar, muriatic acid and hydrofluoric acid (HF - sold as cast wheel cleaner - Eagle1 silver bottle) are most common. The most effective method is a metal polish that acts as a barrier against rust and corrosion. Combine mild dish detergent with clean water, using about1/4 pint of soap per gallon of water. There are 2 problems with acid based cleaners so I think they are really risky. Avoid parts sitting in a stainless steel pot or sonicator tub because the stainless will cause etching too. Don't mix metals for more than 20-30 minutes or you will start etching the aluminum and anodizing other parts. Eagle1 aluminum wheel cleaner (orange bottle) is similar, but about 2x expensive. (you can check the MDS sheets for the basic formulae) I just use them undiluted - no water. I've been using Simple Green and Krud Kutter as degreasers for a couple years and they seem to be the same surfactant-detergent idea, but Krud Kutter works about twice as fast. Don't have a sonicator, but maybe my other experiences are helpful. Architectural metal refinishing professionals restoring oxidized anodized aluminum window frames, stained and color faded anodized aluminum spandrel panel restoration.
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